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Melk Imboden, poster for the Art Market of Central Swiss Artists, 1990. Stans. © MAK
i made this to help out someone who was having trouble with palettes and picking colors! maybe it’ll help you guys out too (I hope so anyway)
now just wait a fucking second
Okay, so recently, I discovered that quite a few people have resorted to using the pen tool to fill in their lineart neatly, which takes EXCRUCIATINGLY long . Some people use a masking tool, others just hastily fill in the lineart with the brush tool, which usually ends up with colors poking out the side of the piece that you have to go back and erase.
Well I’m going to show you a quicker, easier way to do it, using the wand tool [or selection tool in sai). Some people have problems using the wand tool, as it leaves a blank space between the lineart and the actual fill space, but this tutorial tells you how to avoid this!
First, let’s start out with our lineart.
Now, you’ll need to select this tool, the wand tool
Now, this is important. you need to select OUTSIDE the lines, not inside. You also have to be on the same layer as your lineart. Make sure your lines are closed so that you don’t end up selecting inside the lines! (If you have intentional gaps in your lineart, I will tell you how to use this same method later in the tutorial)
NOW INVERSE!! (select -> inverse) 
Your selection is now inside the lineart! BUT WAIT!! Do not fill behind the lineart just yet, or this will happen!
You will get white around the outside of the line! We certainly don’t want this! before you fill it in with the bucket or fill tool, you have to go to Select -> Modify -> Contract
you will get this, and you will will have to change the number depending on how thick your lineart is and what dpi you’re working in. Normally I just do 3 or 4 since i work in 300 dpi.
So now your selection will go from this:
To this!
NOW you can fill/use the bucket tool underneath your lineart.
Now you may have to do a little erasing in the corners, since the selection tool normally can’t get into little crevices.
Also, if you select INSIDE your lineart to fill in certain areas, such as the eyes, all you have to do is go to “select -> modify -> expand” instead of “contract”.
NOW FOR LINEART WITH INTENTIONAL GAPS.
normally, if you do the selection tool, it will do this, right? 
It selects inside the lines as well. Here’s how you fix that. go underneath your lineart and make lines as if you’re connecting the lines together. 
Now go back to your wand tool. At the top, you will see a box that will say “Sample all layers”. You need to check this box. 
Now select outside your lineart and…
Viola! Now just go to the layer that you used to close the gaps, repeat all steps above, and fill it in. (if you’re using the bucket tool, you’ll have to click twice to fill it in completely)
ta da! Now just do your cleanup, and you’re good to go! Don’t forget to lock your layers, as well as use clipping masks so you don’t paint outside your lines!
I hope this has helped c:
this is going to kill my hand jfc why did i decide this was how I wanted to do the hair wh y
here is a MUCH HAIR tip that will probably make your life %10 easier!
pick any brush u want and freely sketch yo hair
ctrl + click the hair layer to select it
increment by 1 or 2 depending how thick you like your lines
make a new layer under your hair layer
fill with desired color
I’m already almost done lining this hair monster but thank you so much for the tip I’ll use it the next time I draw shiroba!
Latex Molds and Resin Casting Tutorial by NeferCosplay
Inktober is a week away and I’ve been getting lots of questions about what tools I use and recommend for inking. So I made a list of the essentials.
Go to www.mrjakeparker.com/inktober for Inktober rules and resources. #inktober
- Pigma Micron
The best pen to start inking with. They have a tough felt tip that draws a firm mark and are great for understanding the basics of laying a line down. - Uni Pin Pen
An alternative to the Pigma. Tips feel a little looser. - Pigma Brush Pen
A good intro to drawing with a looser line. Tip is felt and can fray over the course of several drawings. Is recommended for larger drawings. Hard to get detailed with it. - Kuretake Fudegokochi Brush Pen - Regular
This is a molded felt tip which means it’s sturdy like the Pigmas but you get a more expressive line like the brush pens. Ink is nice and dark. - Pentel XFL2L Scientific Brush - Medium Size
This pen is a great introduction to drawing with a brush tip. It’s tip is composed of nylon fibers and are filled with aqueous dye-based inks and dry extremely dark. You can get the finest of lines and the thickest of strokes with this. Pentel also has these in two other sizes I believe. Plus it has ink refills. - Pentel Pocket Brush Pen
My work horse. Also a nylon brush tip, it offers a smooth and powerful line and can also give you fun expressive lines too. I’ve been drawing with this pen for years and it holds up to a beating, yet will still give you a fine delicate line if you need it. I highly reccommend it. - Kuretake No. 13 Fountain Brush Pen
I just got this pen and it’s beautiful. The lines are rich yet sharp. It’s great for details and broad strokes. The pen has a little more weight to it so you feel like you’re actually holding something. The fine nylon bristles have a satisfying snap to it allowing you to intuitively move from thick to thin. I love it. - Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Water Colour Brush size 1This is what brush pens wish they were. This is the gold standard, Rolls Royce of inking tools. It’s the brush Bill Watterson drew Calvin and Hobbes with. No nylon, synthetics, or plastic here, just wood, metal, and hair. There’s nothing quite like drawing with one. The ONLY draw back is you have to dip is in ink, which can get tedious, especially while under a deadline.
Ever have trouble finding boots in the right color? Tried spray-painting them and ended up with a dry, cracked mess?
A fantastic friend recently advised me to paint leather boots (and any other leather goods) with floral paint. This is a spray paint that is light and flexible enough to use on live flowers. Above are the Poison Ivy boots I painted for a friend, which turned out fantastic.
One thing though: Wear them while you paint them, and maybe stretch your foot around in between coats. I didn’t think of this, and while the paint did not crack at all, it started to split where the boots were stretched from walking. Next time I paint some boots, I’ll let you know if I was able to fix this problem.
The paint I used is called Design Master, and you can find it at Michael’s or Joann Fabrics. In the stores near me, Michael’s had a better selection of colors and a slightly better price, but that may not be true everywhere. This color is “Holiday Green.”
Great alternative to spray rubber and plasti-dip or bootcovers, and cheaper than leather paint! Reminder that Michaels and JoAnns both frequently offer 50% off coupons and will match competitor coupons and offers!!
yooo i used this stuff on my ball gown shoes a while back and it worked perfectly. also if you rub pure acetone on your shoe before you paint it, it will rub off the leather/pleather etc sealant and absorb the paint even better, lessening your chances of the paint splitting in some areas. also spraying it with water proof sealant for shoes will help out a great deal as well!
this stuff is AMAZING it only took one coat to evenly color my boots in the perfect color!! It’s a little expensive for paint but it’s way cheaper than finding shoes or other leatherwear in the “perfect” color, and this way you can choose the preferred style and color as needed!!